Spring 2013 RTW Wrap Up

 

 I have been taking notes and scribbling my thoughts as I sifted through the seemingly endless runway shots from the Spring 2013 collections, as if I was a writer for Pop up Video. All along thinking I was going to write yet another fashion manifesto. Yet as I sit here in front of the computer, glass of wine in hand, metaphorically cracking my knuckles in that finger warm up kind of way, I am thinking, I really don't want to. Those take forever and I don't know how many people are really reading this anyhow, so I'm just going to do a train of thought kind of thing. Basically give you the abbreviated version of the note taking and scribbling - accompanied by photos of my favorite looks from the shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

Here we go:

Marc Jacobs

When I first came across this look I wasn't too taken despite my love of all things striped. However, I found that the more I reviewed the pins I had been adding to our enexile board this look was drawing my eye more than any other and I have to say that it has become my favorite from the whole season. I'll tell you why, it's stripes - okay - but it's done in such a thoughtful way. I love how the top stripes curve up and the bottom curve down to echo the female form. I love that it reminds me of the Opt Art movement - most specifically the work of Bridget Riley (who is arguably the creator of the Opt Art movement.) I love the softness of the bow which again adds to the femininity, and I love the cut out at the elbow which makes it feel utterly modern and not simply retro. Love love love. So cool.



 

 

Marc Jacobs

Bridget Riley

Bridget Riley



 



Wes Gordon 

I'm not previously familiar with this designer I have to admit, but I really dig the ease and effortless cool of his designs. (Not to mention the use of Navy and Ice Green together which I love and had in my color forecast for this season.) I cannot imagine feeling anything but modern and sophisticated wearing these clothes. And though I am not typically a fan of an exaggerated flare pant, I think it works here, most notably in the 2nd look where the flare has to be as it is for the proportion to work - which it does so beautifully. I do have to say that I think the 3rd look would work just as well with a slim leg. Personally I wouldn't wear a print on a flare like that. Finally the 2nd look is cocktail party gold people. GOLD.




look 1

look 2
 



look 3

look 4
 

Sophie Theallet

I have always been a fan of using shades of the same color also of using different fabrics of the same shade so this dress is awesome. Its feminine without the usual trappings, just the lightness of the chiffon that drifts away from the body. Then the contrast of the fabric and the structured bodice, the panel in the skirt that add a modern clean element. They strike a nice balance. Finally this dress feels timeless, always a plus.

Lanvin

I don't think this really requires explanation. Classic, chic, timeless.

 

 

Nina Ricci

If you've got a minute that will easily turn into an hour than I urge you to follow this link and indulge in some of the cooooolest fashion around. Nina Ricci 

Okay, so this collection intrigued me especially because of the haphazard play of hems, cuts, draping, and layering. It was wonderful madness. Seeing fringe on the runways was a surprise and I have to say that Nina Ricci used it in the most innovative way of all the designers featuring the swishy threads on the catwalks this season. The fringe scarves seen in look 1 and 3 here are so dramatic. The skirt in look 2, with it's asymmetric lines and appliques is making fringe cool and modern again for the first time since it originally came out to play in the 20's. The fringe here doesn't look costume-y it looks totally wearable and daring. The way it looked I'm sure to those wild flapper girls back in the (hey)day.

 

look 1

look 2

the flappers

 

 

I also love these sequined lace pants which I would dress down with a tee shirt and boots. And this shirred asymmetric dress with it's cheeky underlay of netting is so drop dead cool I just don't know what to do. I love it!

 

look 3

look 4

 

Saint Laurent

This collection overall kind of lost me with the styling - which can either be an asset or a distraction. Here it felt more like a distraction from what were undeniably beautiful clothes. Anyway - I love this little cape. It reminded me of the classic Dior gown that has been burned into my brain since I can remember. I don't think I can really work with a cape though, and would love to see this as a skirt, long, short or in between.

 

Markus Lupfer

There was an abundance of new techno fabrics with strange reflective effects shown this season. I liked what Markus Lupfer did with them the best. I'm not really one for the modern techno look - it feels a bit contrived for me - like we're doing it because we are obligated to. It reminds me of when the synthesizer came out in the 80's and all the pop songs suddenly had this  "new modern sound" which as we all know now is better than carbon dating if you want to know when a song was written.
Don't even get me started on the whole "Auto-Tune" debacle. *shiver*
 

So, these are my favorite examples of the use of new fabrics. He didn't try to point out that they were "NEW"by creating strange over imagined proportions or using crazy colors or some other fashiony gimmick. He just let the fabric speak for itself in simple clean designs that I'm sure we won't look back on in 20 years and say "what were we thinking???" These looks will stand the test of time.

 

L'Wren Scott

I love this jacket. Gold sequin jacket - YES. The slim elongated arm keeps it from looking like a disco disaster which it could be if done either cheaply or ill-fitted. Neither the case. I'd wear this with everything, which is why I love that they've styled it with a casual look.

 

Naeem Kahn

I have always been a little envious of Indian women and their beautifully vibrant and embellished saris. I went though a phase where I was on eBay and scouring antique malls collecting sari's despite knowing why or to what end. I eventually ended up hanging them all around a spare room and throwing pillows on the floor, al la opium den of the 1900's. Then I later used them as curtains which ruined some of them from sun fading. Anyway, the point is I loved them. The colors, the intricacy, the sparkle and the dignity all at the same time. It's hard to wear sequined fuchsia and be dignified yes? Well a sari makes it lovely and classic. Now the dress I chose as my favorite isn't one of those bright colors, but it is drapey and sparkly and lovely. It feels Indian and Bohemian at the same time. Just beautiful and yes - timeless.

Elie Saab

Continuing on my sparkly path we have to stop at Elie Saab. A Red Carpet favorite for sure, and you can see why. These dresses are not for cocktail parties - they are for ceremonies and lavish fundraisers. Not exactly events that speak to most of us but we love to look and dream. This dress is so delicate. I love the straightness of the neckline and the subtle sheer lines that break up the gown. It keeps it from looking like a spangly armor.This doesn't look like it weighs 50 lbs which I'm sure it does and that is a feat only accomplished through excellent craftsmanship. This is a full on gown. I could see this on the Dutchess of Cambridge as easily as I could have seen it on The Princess of Wales. Elegant and Dignified.

Rachel Zoe

I watched the reality show. I liked it. Rachel Zoe is spunky and cute and I like her style. I'm surprised that her line doesn't look just like her actually... So this dress, in what I believe she calls "Gilver" a cross between Gold and Silver - is a Bohemian Rock N Roll goddess dress - so I love it. The color, the drape, the fluidity all feel effortless.

I guess that sums it up. I'm realizing after proofreading this to the best of my abilities, (I admit I am a run on sentence criminal.) That I am really focused on items that can straddle the line between modern and timeless. Almost every piece chosen I feel could stand the test of time and not be easily dated when looking back from the future. That's important to me - and perhaps to others especially when you are considering making a purchase for your long term wardrobe. I don't know how many of my picks would be considered trendsetting, I hope none of them as "on trend" is a dirty term when looking at the bigger picture. As I said before in my previous manifesto, trends are for inspiration, not investment.
Cheers!