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Resort 2014 Review

Resort 2014 seemed to have a little bit of everything. There were the classic vacation ensembles and there were offerings that seemed more likely to be worn in the fall. Resort always seems to be a grey area where designers can really just do whatever they want. Some take the opportunity to offer full 30 piece collections, while others offer capsule collections of only a few select pieces. You also often get the sense that it is a transition time for designers where they can either play with a new inspiration without having to commit to a whole collection or they can get a flight of fancy out of their system. Either way it's a fun group to see, here are some of my favorite looks.

Pattern

Clover Canyon: I'm not typically a fan of either jumpers or Peruvian looking skirts with cutesy little sweatshirty tops, which is why I had to add these because they totally won me over.

Mary Katrantzou: Awesome example of photo prints.

Moschino and Tory Birch : Love these as outfits and could also work as separates with a solid tee or bottom. A good floral is timeless, these are good florals.

Anna Sui : Anna Sui almost always does prints and they are often Russian or somehow ethnic looking. These are great workable tunic options that would transition well from Spring through to Fall.

Thom Browne: This mix of patterns is inspired!

Nina Ricci: Nina Ricci makes it look so effortless and French and Chic. I would never think these pieces would work together, but they do so well.

Lanvin: Speechless. Amazing!

 

Pajamas

Gucci

Rochas: The French do it again. That effortless Chic thing.

Chloe: I realize these aren't pajamas, but there is defiantly a PJ vibe happening here, and I dig it.

 

White

DKNY: Donna Karen has done a lot by way of seaming in the past several seasons. This is a really lovely example of a clean totally wearable white summer dress.

Wes Gordon: We've seen this same outfit before in Spring 2013 in Red. Works in a totally Jet Set Rivera way here in the white. Love it.

Kaufmanfranco: I look at this and just see Gucci worn by Elizabeth Hurley, maybe that's why I like it. It's classic.

Nicole Miller: I can see endless petite celebrities wearing this all summer long. Calling Nicole Ritchie and The Olsen Twins... 

Rag & Bone: Sharon Stone needs this outfit right? Classic casual Hollywood.

Ralph Rucci: Love the simple sheath and the sequin / sweater combo.

 

Black Dress

Alberta Ferretti: This dress is just so romantic and feminine. It doesn't really evoke a Resort feel, but again - this is a transitional season and designers get a free pass.

Alexander McQueen: Cool.

Zimmerman: A very classic Halston-esqe dress.

Willow: I really wish this was either longer or shorter because it feels a little off, but I can't help but love what is happening with the bodice. It just looks like it would be so fun to wear.

 

Rocker

Belstaff: Belstaff delivers again. All those zippers and snaps and yet it still looks so clean. the construction is so enviable, these guys really know what they are doing, and it shows. Quality, these are essential investment pieces.



Deisel Black Gold: Again, good staple rocker pieces.

 

Bohemian

 

 

Altuzarra: I was tempted to Pin this whole collection, I must say it was one of my favorites overall. The styling and the accessories all work so well together. These were just the highlights - but I encourage you to view the whole group here, http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/2014RST-ALTZRRA



Roberto Cavalli: You can always count on Cavalli to use pattern in an inspired and skilled way. He does not let me down this season - Resort seems to be a real natural place for him to shine as his clothes always seem to be Vacation appropriate. This was another collection where I had a hard time choosing my favorites, you can view the whole group here,  http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/2014RST-RBTOCVLL

Men's Review - Spring 2014

I didn't even bother making a board on Pinterest for the category of  Men's Spring 2014. Collection after collection rolled out ridiculous shorts paired with sleeveless blazer's that I only hope no man would wear, ever (I'm looking at you Donatella - as always). It was a let down but really when you consider Menswear for Spring, most designers are going to attempt to offer warm weather ensembles which are tricky at best. Other designers don't seem to acknowledge a need for lighter fare and just design as if Summer will never come. However there were some collections toward the end of the shows that redeemed Men's Spring Fashion and here are my picks for the best of those...

Etro

Totally digging the Pancho Villa vibe at Etro, lightweight suits and printed shirts were cool without coming off costumey.

John Varvatos

Varvatos almost never lets us down, his offerings are consistently cool and wearable without becoming trendy. This collection had a Edwardian feel while still allowing for a modern ease.

Haider Ackerman

Haider Ackerman has been great the last few seasons. The looks are always styled well making it clear who the customer is. This is a hip but not hipster man a la Johnny Depp who dresses for comfort but can't help but love what fashion can do for him without words.

Lanvin

I had to include this one look in particular because normally I would not approve of a sleeveless button down shirt, however this is done so well, I had to acknowledge it. 

 

Viktor & Rolf

Geek Chic is a new classic, and who better than Viktor & Rolf to pull it off with such ease.

Balmain

Balmain continues to offer cool, wearable and edgy clothes for the impossibly cool guy. If the clothes were affordable to the rock n roll everyday customer I have no doubt they would be everywhere. And I don't care how many times I see that same moto pant come down the Balmain catwalk, I still love it as if I had never seen it before.



 

Fall 2013 Review - Part 3 Paris

The Paris shows are always the most eccentric, the most daring and the most extravagant. The grandest of the grand old houses show in Paris and they know how to put on a show...


Impact @ Chanel



Drama @ Dries Van Noten



Mystery @ Louis Vuitton


There were some common trends among my favorites like retro at Louis Vuitton and Mui Mui and punk at Junya Watanabe.

1960'S Overcoats at Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton channeling Elizabeth Taylor in Butterfield 8

Amazing flower petal sandals at Louis Vuitton

Mary Janes and Neckerchiefs at Mui Mui

Mui Mui

The iconic motorcycle jacket meets the classic 3/4 overcoat at Junya Watanabe

This season in particular there seemed to be many more designers adopting the practice of playing with cuts. Where they are cutting clothes not only asymmetric but purposely off center, like off off center. There were also some odd proportions which ultimately felt like the designer was just trying too hard to be different - for example Barbara Bui. We saw a bit of this in Spring too, but there was a very large group doing this in Fall. I don't know how successful it is when you can't help but ask, "Is it supposed to fit like that?" I feel that if you are wondering, they aren't succeeding. Below are examples of the worst and the best;



 Barbara Bui : The proportion of this suit - the flared short pant with the low rise and the wide shouldered jacket just don't work. They seem as if the designer were cutting the suit this way just to be different, not to be flattering.

 

The most successful designer cutting asymmetric and experimental was Haider Ackermann.

These looks are all cut so well and fit so perfectly that there is no question regarding the designers intention.

Extremely cool boots @ Haider Ackerman




Some other notably cool looks came from the following designers:

Volume and drape at Gareth Pugh



Detail at  Comme des Garcons.

Mixing patterns at Givenchy.  I love all the colors - the soft pink and cherry red. I love the floral print and the shiny boot against the softness of the silk.

Channeling a modern day Katherine Hepburn look at Elie Saab

Long and fluid at Ann Demeulemeester. I would put this with a simple fitted black leather jacket and some long layered necklaces.

Chic and Easy @ Akris



Demure and Detailed @ Valentino

Keeping the torch lit @ Alexander McQueen

 All in all Paris proved once again to show a good mix of cutting edge strangeness and chic covetable fashion. I for one am looking forward to the September issues and all the creative ad campaigns... Thanks for reading!